Here's the control console I've just built:
It's connected to the C64 using a 2-in-1 plug that I fashioned from two individual connectors. The plastic sleeves were cut to fit and reassembled in one case, using some extra plastic:
The connection, a tight and stable fit:
The pots are linear 100K, used with 4700pF capacitors.
The connections between the C64 and the control console are fully wired to all 9 pins on both connectors. This is in case I decide to add more functionality to the console at a later date.
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Get out of my head!!!! >_< I had the same idea, but damn your version is much nicer than what I had planned!!!
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What did you build the pot box out of?
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It is a general purpose console box from Maplin UK. They do a few sizes, and you cut the holes you need and install everything as you'd like.
The boxes come with a plastic sheet attached to the top which is handy for marking where the holes are to go before drilling. This is then peeled off prior to attaching the pots, giving the shiny metal finish.
I've got a little 8-channel mixer (nothing flash, just loudness level controls) in a similar box next to it.
http://www.maplin.co.uk/family.aspx?men … Enclosures
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Here's a diagram of the circuitry:
Numbers correspond with pins on the joystick port. This circuit was constructed twice for using with both C64 controller ports, and all four potentiometers.
Last edited by InactiveX (2008-09-02 23:02:37)
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Hey! thanx man!
i just did this mod and it works perfect!
Its so much more fun without those jumpy knobs!
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You are using 100k pots... how is the pots response compared to the 500k pots AlphA suggests ??
And if i may ask, what are the 4700pF (caps?) for ?
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ron wrote:
See: Making Pots More Accurate
who didn't google now?
Actually, i did but only found external articles with theoretical discussions of how to make the pots more responsive - like this one http://sound.westhost.com/pots.htm (see fig.9) and all i ever heard from forum-users was '500k' even when i played around with feedback the answer was '500k - only works for the last 1/3 of the way... live with it' .... hehe, Alpha suggests 500k also, so i thought this was some groundbreaking discovery - like that guy who removed R8 from his S2S earlier today *LOL* now what was his name
Thx for the link ron
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salkinitzor wrote:
Hey! thanx man!
i just did this mod and it works perfect!
Its so much more fun without those jumpy knobs!
Cool! Very glad it worked for you.
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thanks worked for me perfectly as well, 100k pots with 4700pf capacitors work so much better than 500k.
shame your console looks so much nicer than mine!
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The console's surface soon looked a bit grubby with fingerprints, so I enamel-painted it a nice "Breadbin BrownŽ" colour. Also shortened the pot shafts.
Still looking and working great!
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Here's a pic of my Pot Box made using InactiveX's schematic. Not as beautiful as InactiveX's but the schematic works a treat.
Thanks.
Last edited by neal beard (2011-04-28 16:37:39)
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neal beard wrote:
Here's a pic of my Pot Box made using InactiveX's schematic. Not as beautiful as InactiveX's but the schematic works a treat.
Thanks.
I think you might want to tweak your pots box a little bit if you haven't seen >>>THIS<<< thread before..
Because the schematic above WILL work, but it has been later improved by InactiveX allowing for full rotation and no dead spots...
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wow - hadn't seen that thread - thanks for the heads up on that - I'll definitely re-jig my pot box with this new design...
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Hope it works well for you! I've built two of the new circuits now, and the improvement to MSSIAH use is like night and day. Especially on the BassLine for those squelchy acid noises!
Nice work Neal!
Last edited by InactiveX (2011-04-29 21:56:36)
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The pot controller box now has a new case:
The case was taken from an old redundant C=64 power supply, which had begun to rattle. It was made by "Micro Mate" in England. I was looking at it one day and realised it would make a great controller box. The sloped front looks really nice next to the Commodore, and the sets of six indented lines match up perfectly.
I've also revised the joystick connector. It's still a dual plug, but there's now only one cable, a length of 9-core.
The knobs are vintage bakelite for that lovely old-fashioned brown colour.
The circuitry inside is my pot mod: http://www.mssiah-forum.com/viewtopic.php?id=1935
Last edited by InactiveX (2012-02-14 12:00:59)
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That is pretty darn sweet! I recently got back into C64s, picked up 8 in the last month. So far, I've installed a sid2sid, 2 mssiah carts, installed a uiec sd, reset switch, rca ins/outs, s-video, etc. Time for my pots! Thanks for your hard work... I'm gonna start working on the mod w/ your new circuit. Excited!!!!
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Excellent. Stick around here, dJ dAb.
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Love it I am currently wrestling with two converted Atari Paddle Controllers!
My C64 build has halted while I decide whether or not to rebuild my original mods in a new case or get off my a*se and replace the RAM on my current C64 which is doing a good impression of a "toaster" and giving me the dreaded black screen of death it was all going so well lol
- Replaced the RAM last night I now have a working C64 again, no black screen. But my uIEC board keeps playing up Grrrrrrrr
Last edited by BlackBeltJones (2012-02-19 16:22:46)
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Now, wait a minute...
The capacitors should be connected in parallell with those on the motherboard, i.e. directly between pins 8 and 5. Otherwise the response will not be linear.
And considering the charging time is R*C, the caps should be 2200pF when using 220k pots. With 100k they should be 8200pF...
With that schematic, the more you turn the knobs, the less the new caps interacts. That's probably why they're 4700pF. Hmm... the math doesn't add up though.
I'll have to experiment with this...
Last edited by MadModder (2012-12-25 17:46:25)
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